LagondaNet

[Hawke]

I need some help removing the hypoid unit in #13557.

While attempting to replace the rear brake pads, I noticed that one of the rear caliper pistons appears frozen or otherwise inoperative. Trying to unbolt the calipers from the respective sides of the hypoid unit while lying on my back under the car looks to be nearly impossible. So… if I can drop the entire hypoid unit, I can easily remove and rebuild the calipers.

I have unbolted the hypoid unit from the drive shaft and the cradle (properly termed “cantilever assembly”) but now need to separate the unit from the half shafts to each rear wheel. But where? There are six socket-head cap screws on each side holding the half shafts to the CV joint, brake discs and the hypoid unit. Is removing those six screws the easiest way? I’m leery about removing those bolts, messing up the CV joint and finding that I still can’t drop the hypoid unit out of the car…

Any suggestions or alternative ideas would be much appreciated. Thanks all for your past assistance…
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Living on the [w]edge...

[Vincent]

On my S2 the axles are bolted on rear disks and that's where you have to unscrew the bolts. No idea on a S4...Maybe same ???
The calipers are adapted from Jaguar S3 ones.
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Welcome to Paradise ! (FRONT 242)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XS30BC3D5WM

[Hawke]

[Vrije]

CV joints dont fall apart when taking out the 6 bolts.so no problem.

didnt know the s4 had them, s2 and 3 do not use these.

We just pulled the front mount and had the diff flip forward to do the calipers

[david]

There are three types of drive shaft;

Early cars up to about 13219 have a drive shaft with a universal joint at each end and a (complex) sliding joint in the middle.

Then there was a change from around 13220 to about 13346 that has a universal joint at one end (inner) and a CV joint at the other (outer) end.

As the CV joint allows for lateral movement, there is no need for the sliding joint and this is eliminated.

The final version is from about 13347 on and comprises a CV joint at each end and no sliding joint.

I am quoting directly from the Lagonda parts book so don't blame me when you find all the VIN's are incorrect!

The CV joint will NOT fall apart if you undo and remove the six locating bolts, so do not worry about this.

However, in between the joint and the outer adaptor ring is a special fibre washer and this can break up all too easily - they are very expensive, around £40.00 each from memory.

If all you are doing is dropping away the CV joint, just carefully separate it from the output flange, leave the fibre washer and you should be OK.

if you are going to change the discs, the outer adaptor and then inner adaptor rings need removal and there are a total of three fibre rings - per side - so it can get very expensive if they break up and they often do...............

As for removing the differential/brake calipers/discs etc. unit, we do it a different way:

Drop off the prop shaft,

Disconnect the cruise control speed sensor (if fitted)

Disconnect the handbrake cable, return springs etc and brake flexi hose

Unbolt the drive shafts, regardless of CV joint or not.

Now, only three bolts retain the entire assembly:

The bolt at each side of the car on the rear carrier that spans the width of the car and the one bolt at the front under the nose of the diff.

Support the diff, remove these, and manoeuvre the unit out, cradle and all.

I would suggest replacing the three rubber bushes for the frame mounts as these do degrade and if it is all coming apart, why not make a job of it?

Check also the differential locating bolts, two per side and four on top - these can (and do) work loose - if they are, replace the bolts and it is important to thread lock and lock wire them as they must not be allowed to come loose.

They should be replaced as if the bolts are loose, they are most likely stretched.

Have fun

David

[Lagondanet]

Thanks for posting that David. Yes. Does sound fun.

[Hawke]