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Matinik
Joined: 14 Sep 2017 Posts: 46 Location: Morgan Hill, California
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Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2018 5:32 am Post subject: |
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Hi Ken. I had the very same problem and I temporarily attached an external pump for now. Hopefully your solution goes without a hitch - I'll do the same thing as it would definitely be a cleaner (and original) setup.
Also agree on wincing at $800, yikes Aston. |
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Matinik
Joined: 14 Sep 2017 Posts: 46 Location: Morgan Hill, California
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Posted: Thu Apr 11, 2019 6:27 pm Post subject: |
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Howdy - did the XJ6 fuel pumps work out? |
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ksumrall
Joined: 14 Dec 2011 Posts: 23 Location: Sunnyvale, CA
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Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2020 8:29 pm Post subject: |
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Sigh, after I got the fuel pump, my life got busy, and I've just let the Lagonda sit in it's safe, covered storage area.
However, 3 days ago I retrieved my car and I'm doing some work on it again! I haven't gotten to the fuel pump yet, I've been doing some easier tasks to get some momentum going. But I'll let you know how the fuel pump swap goes soon.
Did you already do yours? |
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ksumrall
Joined: 14 Dec 2011 Posts: 23 Location: Sunnyvale, CA
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Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2020 10:15 pm Post subject: |
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So I attempted to change my fuel pump last week. I did not complete the job. I damaged the new replacement pump while attempting to remove it from the XJ6 bracket to mount in the Lagonda bracket. Drilling out the rivets was easy. They are aluminum, and a 1/8" drill bit in my drill press took care of them in 15 seconds.
But when I went to undo the nyloc nuts holding the wires to the pump, on one of them, it was actually turning the threaded shaft in the plastic housing. After I realized was was happening (the nut wasn't coming off after a bunch of turns with the wrench) I checked to see if I'd broken the pump, and sure enough, 12V did not run it.
I decided to do some destructive disassembly to figure out what had gone wrong. First, I needed to remove that nut. I used a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to cut a notch i the end of the screw post and nut. See this picture:
http://scrapheap.net/lagonda_pictures/fuel_pump/IMG_20200412_1440019.jpg
I then used small screwdriver to hold the post stationary while I removed the nut. I then put the motor/pump housing assembly in a vise, and started to cut it open. Turns out, the the problem was when I turned the post, I twisted the wire connecting the post to the brush for the motor, thus shortening it so it wouldn't touch the commutator. See these two pictures showing the brush assembly untwisted and twisted.
http://scrapheap.net/lagonda_pictures/fuel_pump/IMG_20200417_1432044.jpg
http://scrapheap.net/lagonda_pictures/fuel_pump/IMG_20200417_1432342.jpg
So, I need to get another pump. I see some on eBay reasonably priced. And if there are nyloc nuts on the new pump, I'll do the dremel notch trick before I attempt to remove the nuts.
If you go to http://scrapheap.net/lagonda_pictures/fuel_pump/ you can see a bunch of other pictures I took comparing the stock fuel pump assembly to the Jaguar XJ6 Series 2 pump I got on eBay. There is also a picture of a serious crimp I removed with a cutoff wheel, and next to it, an inline 20 uH inductor from the new pump that I presume was there to reduce RFI noise from the fuel pump motor. The original looks like simple copper strap all the way from the terminal to the pump.
I'll post more once I get the new pump and successfully get it installed. I'll try to make a "how to do it post" from start to finish for others to follow. |
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