LagondaNet

[Vincent]

A little default with huge and expensive consequences : the motor supports. They are two, one each side of the block. They are easy to check or replace ( AML ref : 095.010.0101 ).
When they break, the motor falls on the front cross member. As the sump is made of alloy, it breaks and you get the oil away...and a motor breakage. This experience is sadly true !
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[jonc]

Eek! That sounds bad.

What happens? Is it the rubber of the mounting falling apart, or a problem with the metalwork?

[Vincent]

[Hawke]

[Lagondanet]

David Marks should know. He has just changed mine.

[david]

For the engine mounts, it is a bit fiddly and, assuming the usual number of Aston Martin oil leaks, a very dirty job!

It is best carried out on a four post lift with a sliding beam jack fitted.

The way I did it as follows:

Open the bonnet and support so as it cannot slam down.

Only do one side at a time BUT leave the lower engine mount nuts loose until both sides are fitted and engine is set level in the car.

One side is easier than the other - this is because the steering column comes down to the rack and partially obscures things.

I have only done a RHD car but I think it will be about the same for both right and left drive.

The procedure is the same for each side:

Note the number and position of any spacers/insulators fitted between the engine mount brackets and the mount.

Remove the 17mm headed nut and washer from the engine mount lower stud - accessed with a long extension through a gap in the chassis leg.

Remove the four 5/16 UNF nuts locating the engine mount bracket to the engine - three will come away completley, the fourth will undo most of the way and then be removed once the engine mounting is fully free.

Remove the top two 13mm headed bolts in the mount bracket to body frame.

Use the beam jack and a suitable "pillar" jack the respective side of the engine up - at this stage JUST TO TAKE THE WEIGHT.

With the weight taken, remove the remaining two bolts and note where the earth lead goes as this is attached to the engine and body frame by the engine mount nuts/bolts.

Now jack the engine up on the one side by maybe 2 - 3 inches.

MAKE SURE THE BONNET IS OPEN AND CANNOT SLAM DOWN!!! - Put a heavy cloth or something on top of the air intake "just in case".

Don't jack the engine too far as hoses etc will be stretched and damaged.

With the engine raised, manipulate the body bracket and combined engine bracket/mount, remove the remaining nut on the engine as the bracket comes away.

Once the bracket and mount are removed, place same in a vice, undo the remaining 17mm headed nut, discard the old mount, fit the new and tighten the (ideally new) nut.

Replacement is essentially a reverse of removal, don't forget the spacers and earth strap and don't tighten the lower 17mm headed nut until both sides are done.

The rear mounts to the gearbbox are much easier:

Remove the belly plate, noting any spacers etc and then the mounts and brackets are easy to see and get to, undo the mount from the gearbox (from memory) and the brackets from the body and drop the mount away and change the bush.

I don't think I have forgotten anything significant, apologies if I have.

Have fun!

David

[Lagondanet]

Thank you David!

[Hawke]

Thanks for the careful explanation, David!

Retirement is turning out to be busier than I had anticipated...

John
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Living on the [w]edge...

[Vincent]