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Seat removal and access to rear shocks

 
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Hawke



Joined: 02 Jul 2011
Posts: 29
Location: Oconomowoc, Wisconsin, USA

PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2011 11:23 pm    Post subject: Seat removal and access to rear shocks Reply with quote

Maintenance work on my new (new to me) beauty, #13557, continues. The prior owner had a high-end, gadget-loaded stereo system installed in the car which was, IMHO, not appropriate for this vehicle.

In the course of removing same, I've found that there was another amplifier/control box installed someplace under one of the rear seats. I've twisted myself around trying to see how the fine folks at Newport Pagnell secured the rear seats but cannot determine how they can be removed w/o damage. Any Forum member have a suggestion??

Also, I've obtained a set of the amazingly expensive AML/Koni shock absorbers for the car but don't see how to gain access to the top of the rear shocks?? Any advice??

Thanks to all who have helped in the past, especially you, Harry.

John
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david



Joined: 21 Mar 2008
Posts: 118
Location: Nottingham

PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2011 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

You can combine both jobs:

To remove the seats:

Underneath the seat squabs are two 13mm AF nuts that locate the seat base, remove and lift up and pull forward the squab and out it comes.

You will now see two similar nuts locating the seat back, removew these and pull the seat back DOWN and away.

Be careful not to scratch the leather with the nice sharp edges left behind the seat as it comes out - repeat for the other side.

With the seats out, remove the trim over the rear A/C unit - held in place by two screws under a velcro adhered pad either side of the vent and clips adjacent to the rear screen - assuming the S 1V car is the same as 11's and 111's in this area.

Then undo the screws revealed holding the rest of the parcel shelf in place on each side and once out you will see the top shock mounts.

The self leveller tubes come out of the tops to the units in the boot - remove the boot rear trim to reveal these and after undoing the saddle clamps, pull them away and remove the grub screw in the base to depressurise.

Drain into a tray - the oil can go everywhere if you are not careful.

Then remove the oil vessels and once the nut is undone from the top shock mount it can be passed over the plastic pipe and the shock/spring assembly dropped down.

I assume that you have the new style non self levellers to put back in, these are simpler but the spring must be compressed in situ so be careful.

David
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Hawke



Joined: 02 Jul 2011
Posts: 29
Location: Oconomowoc, Wisconsin, USA

PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2011 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you, David!!

John
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Vrije



Joined: 23 Nov 2007
Posts: 440

PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2011 10:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

To John an d David,
Before pulling the plug on the canisters (very slowly), jack the rear end(wheels of the ground), maybe coincidence but here I had no (real) spill
of oil when doing 4 of them and what is not spilled needs no extra refill.

Harry

ps still working on the Easy re-pressurizing brainwave Idea but as car is not yet to be re-ed no actual data.
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david



Joined: 21 Mar 2008
Posts: 118
Location: Nottingham

PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2011 6:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Harry,

As we have only ever removed the shocks to replace with the later non self levellers, loosing oil has not been a concern to me. I'll bear it in mind though should we ever just be removing for other maintenance.

David
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